Saturday, May 16, 2015

Oban - Blog 15

May 16, 2015

Using bed and breakfasts as our home base has contributed so much to our trip. I am not sure what is driving the tourism economy in Scotland, but it seams that nearly every home we stay in has been recently upgraded and top notch facilities. It seems as though everyone has completed their upgrades in just the past few years.

More importantly the hosts are always well informed and have given us great suggestions for walks, tours, dinners, and directions. It always feels like we have walked into the home of long time friends. As the isle of Skye recedes in our rear view mirror we remember our host and her young family. Despite debilitating arthritis, young children, and the rigors of running a bed and breakfast, she filled us with helpful information, a warm upbeat spirit, and a beautiful classic Scottish crofters home.

So now we have a choice. Drive an extra two or three hours to make our way to Oban or take the shortcut. Yes! shortcut it is! We simply squeezed our car on the ferry and relaxed and enjoyed the view from the ship. 

Our route, provided by Secret Scotland, worked great! We stopped briefly at the Sands of Morar, a beautiful beach setting. The rain made it a short stop, but still fun to get a look at the beautiful white sandy beach. 

Another brief stop was on Loch Shiel at the Glenfinnen Monument. Another of those historical moments in time that changes the future of many people. Our new found friend, Bonnie Prince Charles chose this spot to declare his father as king and started a revolt that ended very poorly with the clans nearly extinct and the prince exiled to France. Like many times in life, we start with the best intentions and finish greatly humbled!

At this same stop we could see an amazing curving train bridge with many arches. The engineering masterpiece was perfect for the Harry Potter movie it was used in. Our timing was a little off or we could have climbed to a better vantage point and seen the steam train crossing this valley. We saw the train earlier as in crossed the road right in front of us.

We hopped on one more short ferry and stopped for tea at a little cafe overlooking the Castle Stalker. This  stone structure was not accessible since it is in private hands so after tea we drove on to the Dunstaffnage Castle where we could get our daily castle fix. I wonder if Ashland building codes would let me build a stone castle? It would have to be surrounded by water and have a draw bridge so our current drought could be a stumbling block!

Our Oban bed and breakfast is a little distance out of town. The view is one of bright white sheep and dark black cows in deep green grass. With the windows slightly open we can here the water in the nearby stream. Don't you just want to be here too!!

Today, I took the day off from driving and we used ferries and busses to make our way to the Isle of Iona. Our weather included sun, wind, rain, and, according to one of the guides, a little brief snow flurry in the morning. The local bus driver chatted amiably as we crossed the Isle of Mull, provided the backstory of this island. 

The ferry ride from the Isle of Mull to the Isle of Iona was very short and we disembarked very near the Abbey and Nunnery. A partially restored ruins captures the story of St Columba. This courageous monk settled on Iona in 563 AD to establish and oversee a monastery. He is credited with bringing Christianity to Scotland. It was within these walls that The Book of Kells was created in the Middle Ages. The monks here were very instrumental in keeping Christianity alive during this dark time in Europe.  This beautifully illustrated book of the Gospels is now in safe keeping in Ireland.

We ended this relaxing day with a simple salad and glass of wine at home. We are starting to ponder the significance of the cultural and religious history we are experiencing. It is more than just history and stone buildings. It is the foundation of who we are. I need to let these thoughts stew in my head for a while.

Speaking of stew! Last night, I (Tim) enjoyed the best seafood chowder I have ever tasted at a little pub in downtown Oban. I have to find a way to recreate it at home! It would be really nice in the Ashland castle overlooking the moat!
Since I (Kathy) always have my raincoat on, this is my one fashion statement, my red umbrella!
Tim and Kathy

4 comments:

  1. It's raining here, too, so bring your fashion statement home!
    More fun memories to read!

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  2. We have always used B&B’s when travelling in Scotland think they are great places to stay. Rick Steves thinks so too.......


    "Staying in B&B’s can be a great way to save money over sleeping in a bigger and more expensive hotel. The philosophy of the management determines the character of the place rather than its size or facilities. My top listings are run by people who enjoy welcoming the world to their breakfast table

    B&B’s come with their own etiquette or quirks. Keep in mind that B&B owners are at the whim of their guests. If you're getting up early, so are they, and if you're checking in late, they'll wait up for you.

    B&B’s are not hotels - think of your hosts as friendly acquaintances who have invited you to stay in their home, rather than someone you are paying to wait on you.”


    We certainly enjoy welcoming the world to our breakfast table.

    Your blog posts are very enjoyable and we are pleased to see that Secret Scotland has done you proud with itineraries and information. Scotland is an ancient and fascinating country with so much to offer anyone who cares to visit.

    Best wishes,

    Janet, Mark and Lulu the cat

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  3. Kerry, thanks so much for you comments! It was a beautiful mostly sunny day here! Tomorrow is supposed to be the same. Maybe we have broken the trend! Kathy

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  4. Janet, Mark and Lulu,
    We are glad you are enjoying the blog. You were such wonderful hosts! Loved the stories of your time working for the Royal Family! Every host has been great and uniquely different and we have enjoyed each stay. In addition to Secret Scotland we also have Rick Steves and Lonely Planet guidebooks. They all fill in with different suggestions. We love Rick Steves walking tours of the larger cities as it helps narrow down the many choices of things to do and see. Kathy

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